"To draw near a new island I cannot say how much I like. This climate, these voyagings; these landfalls at dawn; new islands peaking from the morning bank; new forested harbours; new passing alarms of squalls and surf; new interests of gentle natives-the whole tale of my life is better to me than any poem."

So wrote the legendary writer Robert Louis Stevenson upon arrival in Samoa in 1889-and he didn't even surf. But if the embodiment of romantic South Pacific surf adventure lives today, it's here on the lush and exotic islands of Samoa, the heart of Polynesia. Here is a destination for surf travelers, not tourists. The combination of world-class waves, undeveloped coastline and traditional Polynesian village culture makes for more than just another 'surf trip'. In Samoa you experience the place as well as the perfection, and return home with more than just the memory of your best ride.

Samoa gets waves all year round. The dry season-April through October-coincides with the south swell season. The wet season - November through March - is dominated by North Pacific and SW cyclone swells. Bonus during these months: steady offshore N trade winds. Although with an extremely open swell window, it's possible to get a combination of all these conditions round the calendar. The one constant is power: Samoan surf would have to be rated as challenging, and not for the beginner surfer.